04 November 2006

Austria: Gruner Veltliner and Dry Riesling

2005 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Kremsar Freiheit $17
Right next to the famous Wachau region is the Kremstal which offers great values for quality wines. Nose of mitzu lettuce and green apple, gloriously the same in mouth with a lovely "green 'n cream aspect" (TT), medieum body and medium finish. What a class wine at a hoi poloi price!

2005 Brundelmayer Langenloiser Berg-Vogelsang
A classic producer who has helped many in the Kremstal. More vegetal than fruit: sweet pea and lentil in nose; same in mouth with medium body. Also, in the mouth there's an evermore intriguing spicyness.

27 October 2006

France: Rhone

2004 Dm. des Entrefaux, Tardy, Crozes-Hermitage $18


Discover Northern Rhone Syrah (Syrah's orginal home) at an affordable price. Classic nose of bacon and some dark fruit; soft, chalky, tannins.

21 October 2006

France: Loire



2005 Dm Sylvain Bailly Quincy Beaucharme $20
Zingy '05's! Ryan says "thyme," Joe thinks it has an herbal, maybe even mint, bend to it. I'll add that it's fresh and a bit tangy. Great!

2002 Dm. Fontainerie Vouvray Sec $20
Nose turning to an interesting bouqet of minerals and caramel with classic honey suckle overtones; mouth has some honey and caramel interplay with great streaks of tartness that would go well with food. Drink now and save one for the road since 2002 was such a great vintage in the Loire.

1990 Dm. Fontainerier Vouvray Molleaux $33
Holy gorgeous! A nose whose complications and turns of honey, honeysuckle, and honey comb won't quite. Lively acidity in mouth makes this, heavy bodied desert wine light and not syrupy in the least. Add it to any kind of subtle creamy cheese at a meal's end, and you'd be hard pressed to get a more elegant and satisiying finish to a meal. We had La Tour from Piemonte.

2004 Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Les Tuffeaux $24
Chenin blanc here. Weight in body but seems lighter because of the lively saliva inducing acidity (if you will); the deftness in mouth mismatches a bit to the a length that Ryan says is "a bit short." Mark, with nary a word more, calls the nose "a cinnamon kiss."

Spain: Rioja

Italy: Alto Adige

Italy: South of Rome

Italy: Piedmont

1998 Molino Barolo $45
Typical La Morra Perfumed nose of flowers (rose and lavendar?), the tannins have really integrated well and the wine is showing beautifully. Great mix of tart bing cherry and a gravely-leather character. Long finish and and spicy retro-gusto.



2004 Sottimano Lange Nebbiolo $23
This really is a Baby Barolo. Wonderful nose of dark cherry, dried roses and fall leaves; medium tannins lift the fruit in mouth even as they still need some protein. Gravely pockets, more dark cherry. Wondeful fo rhte price.


1996 Cavallotto Barolo 'Bricco Boschis'
I'm writing this about a week later and I still have the memory o fthe wine coming to my nose. Swirls and complex layers of red fruit, roses, and eucalyptis. A great year to drink now while you wait for your amazing 2001's to emerge. The eucalyptis really binded the nose's tones which were both high tone as a flute and low as a cello. We started the meal off with the main course and then went to a white to change things up. The tannins, integrated but still present, became intermittedly silky and tea tannin like, accompanied by the trumpet mushroom risotto.

2005 Vietti Roero Arneis

Subtle and intriuing nose of flower and flower seeds. Light body with good acidity. Wonderful!

2003 Vietti Lange Nebbiolo $20
Everyone knows by now that '03 was a hot year in Italy but this is a great Nebbiolo to try if you haven't gotten into this amazing grape yet. this is enrty-level (and priced) with grapes legally allowed from anywhere in the Langhe. Warm ripe nose of black fruit and roses with tannins that would edge away nicely with some brasato.

Sparkling Wines

NV Drusian Prosecco Extra Dry
White flow and mineral nose; extra dry as indicated with a fine bubble pelage. Great refreshing aperitif!

NV Sorelle Bronca Prosecco
Accaica flower, pear and citrus on nose, off-dry. This Prosecco has a following here at PMW.

Italy: Tuscany



2004 Le Ciciole Chianti Classico $22
Nose is straighfoward with a slight resin and anise character with black cherry; once in bocca, releases lots of just ripe and refreshing bing cherry. Medium tannis and light ot medium body. Grab a flank steak and go!

2004 Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino $30
A baby Brunello! Great nose to mouth cohesion. This wine reminds me of a wonderful risotto I had in Piemonte of just ripe blackberry with porcini mushrooms. Nose: those balckberries, touch of fresh porcini and a hint of plum cake (Merlot?). Medium body that's plush and savory. The wine will give you all the joy of a Brunello at half the price.

14 October 2006

France: Beaujolais

2005 Dominique Cornin Beaujolais Blanc $13.99
Chardonnay. Joel says, "...surprisingly weighty." I agree. Typical chardonnay nose that's not pronounced and more toward the apple instead of citrus range. Full bodied with good minerality.

Spain: Ribera del Duero

2003 Vina Pedrosa Ribera del Duero $27
Dark and opaque in glass. The fruit in the nose and mouth are very dense -- giving the wine a very sure medium body. Black fruit and some spice (Ryan says "clove"). There's also an element of "wet bear," says mark, in nose that turns to soy or mushroom on the palatte. Medium tannins and long length. A region that continues to surprize with serious wines.

Greek Wines

2004 Skouras Saint George $10.99

Saint George, or Aghiorghitiko, hails from Nemea, a city and appelation near Corinth, in the Eastern Peloponesse. Light to medium body with lively acidity. Blackberries and cocco from nose; more fruit on palate (some blueberry with the blackberry). Fine, soft tannins. A balanced, fun, wine. Get into Greek wines at a great price!

29 September 2006

Australian Wines: Kooyong


Sandro Mosele, the wine maker from Kooyong, was in the other day and we tasted some great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay being made in the cool south Australian Mornington Peninsula. Sandro talked about the hot winds from the continent getting cooled ass they pass over the Port Phillip Bay en route to the Mornington Penisula.I can't think of a better way to start understanding the emergence of regionality in Australia. You'll like these wines, they all have low alcohol and invite you to taste and drink them with your meal.


2004 Kyoong Clonale Chardonnay $24
More of the citrus spectrum and green apple; touch of fresh cream and not any discernable oak. The wine's fruit really comes through in a clean and refreshing way.

2004 Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir $24
This is the base line pinot and is a blend of vineyards. Clean and simple cherry and a good price if you look around.

2003 Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir $41
This is their cru with clean fruit and a touch of that "Gevery-Chambertin character of porcini and truffle," says Jay.

23 September 2006

Paul Marcus Wines Tasting: France and Italy

2002 Dm. Fontainerie Vouvray Sec $20
Nose turning to an interesting bouqet of minerals and caramel with classic honey suckle overtones; mouth has some honey and caramel interplay with great streaks of tartness that would go well with food. Drink now and save one for the road since 2002 was such a great vintage in the Loire.

2003 Dm Berthoumieu Madiran $18
No light is getting through this brooder. The wine has Tannat grapes which are still quite Tannic. The nose is all black fruit but it really that really opens us in the mouth. Drink now and put one away. It's not often that you can get a decent wine for aging so cheaply.

2004 Le Ciciole Chianti classic $22
Nose is straighfoward with a slight resin and anise character with black cherry; once in bocca, releases lots of just ripe and refreshing bing cherry. Medium tannis and light ot medium body. Grab a flank steak and go!

2004 Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino $30

A baby Brunello! Great nose to mouth cohesion. This wine reminds me of a wonderful risotto I had in Piemonte of just ripe blackberry with porcini mushrooms. Nose: those balckberries, touch of fresh porcini and a hint of plum cake (Merlot?). Medium body that's plush and savory. The wine will give you all the joy of a Brunello at half the price.

2004 Amphorae Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $7.99

This wine is from the region of Abruzzo (not Toscana as the Montepulciano in the grape name misleads). Simple with yummy ripe black fruit and soft tannins. Joel says it has a "barn-yard counterpoint." Try it with a pasta or pizza with carmelized onions, olives, and gorgonzola.

18 September 2006

Roasted Quail, Mercurey, Tarte Tatin

Our usually Monday night back to the reality of the work week. I'm trying to memorize all the AC of the Côte D'Or; drinking this Mercurey should at least get me almost to the end. The roasted quail was half the price of the chicken breast a young blondy was getting. I suggested to her that the qual, at half the price, was way more flavorful and just as easy to prepare. She almost got it when she said "oh! there are bones?" Yes darling getting boned, or, smoking a bone, or that Chablis Les Close cost too many bones, all come from the quite literal bone.

We put dandelion greens under the roasting quail to grease the up as to tone down the bitterness. Sara says the secret to the Tarte is that it's not made by Sara (it's probably Sara's delightfully evil twin). I'm about to open the Dm. Emile Juillot 2002 Mercurey.